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CUISINE TEAM: O.C. chefs
who weighed in with their autumn-produce ideas, from left: Yvon Goetz,
former chef de cuisine at The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton Laguna
Niguel; Azmin Ghahreman, executive chef of The St. Regis Monarch Beach
Resort and Spa; and James Boyce, executive chef at Studio, Montage
Resort and Spa.
Chas Metivier, The oRANGE COUNTY Register |
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Thursday, November 4, 2004
Fall guys
O.C. celebrity chefs create swanky comfort food from autumn's produce bounty
By CATHY THOMAS
Food Editor
Fall creeps slowly into Orange County. It's a stubborn
transition. A stroll through a local farmers market gives visual proof
of the season's reluctant change. Heaps of warm-weather
watermelons cozy up to orderly rows of pumpkins. Plums pile next to
pomegranates, portly peaches next to green gourds streaked with orange.
Heirloom tomatoes and corn still abound. But new arrivals of
crimson-striped apples jockey for display space. As a cook, I
crave late-autumn's bounty. I seek out fall produce – pears, cabbages
and hard-skinned squash. Boldly flavored root vegetables as well as
gently sweet persimmons. Seasonal ingredients are a welcome change in the kitchen. At the table, they can be comfort foods. I
asked three Orange County celebrity chefs about their late-fall
favorites. All in this trio have presided over prestigious restaurant
kitchens in ultra-luxurious beachside resorts. They are: James Boyce,
executive chef at Studio at the Montage Resort and Spa in Laguna Beach;
Yvon Goetz, former chef de cuisine at The Dining Room at The
Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel (the restaurant has closed; Goetz is now
corporate chef for David Wilheim's restaurants, Culinary Adventures
Inc.); and Azmin Ghahreman, executive chef at The St. Regis Monarch
Beach Resort and Spa. Each cheffocuses on fresh ingredients.
Each has a enjoys autumn fare. And each generously offered autumn-style
recipe suggestions, and much of the preparation can be done in advance. Azmin Ghahreman, executive chef at The St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort and Spa:
Born
in Iran and raised in Switzerland, Ghahreman has an international
admiration society. He's cooked at the Four Seasons Hotels in Wailea
and Maui, Hawaii, and Singapore, as well as the Halekulani in Honolulu.
He's served as executive chef at The Regent in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia,
and Sydney, Australia. As he's worked far and wide, his
cooking isn't limited to one flavor palate or cuisine. But when it
comes to autumn cookery, his mind turns to fresh produce "In
other places, seasons matter, and fall is a time to celebrate moving
from one season to another," says Ghahreman. "Here it starts in our
minds because we don't have much of a weather change. But we still want
to enjoy fall fruit and vegetables ... pomegranates, pumpkins and
quince, root vegetables and truffles. "In general, they have a more pronounced taste and stronger character." And Ghahreman notes that techniques change, too. "Shorter
days put you in a slower mode, making you ready for heartier food, for
example butter noodles rather than a quick salad. Typically in Europe,
fall means things cook longer, stewing for hours rather than something
grilled quickly outside." Included in that category are dishes
such as his hearty soups and a relish-like jam made from autumn squash
and chilies that accompanies a creamy cheese in one of his signature
appetizers. Ghahreman's Celeraic (celery root) Soup is a rich,
puréed blend of the celery-scented root vegetable and potatoes. It has
an opulent mouth feel, sparked by ground nutmeg and slow-cooked leeks.
Celeriac Rémoulade, a raw celery root salad dressed with a
mustard-based sauce, became one of his favorite dishes, especially when
served with sliced cold meats. The soup can beserved unadorned or garnished with cooked shrimp, fresh chives or fried celery leaves. Another
favorite is his Pumpkin Chili Jam. It's served with Humboldt Fog Cheese
and a tiny microgreen salad. The "jam" is made with kabocha, a
hard-skinned Japanese pumpkin with a dark-green rind with light-green
stripes and splotches. Inside the shell, the flesh is a deep,
yellow-orange. The taste is complex, almost sweet potato, with
earthiness. Once baked, the kabocha flesh is combined with
blanched chilies, juniper berries and ginger. The mixture, really more
of a vegetable butter than a jam, accompanies a generous slab of
Humboldt Fog goat cheese. Humboldt Fog has an interior layer of ash as
well as an ash-dusted rind. It's light and creamy when young and
increases in complexity with age. Whether the cheese has a little age
on it or the taste of youth, a ribbon of jam brings both color and
sweet spiciness to the dish. A bundle of baby mint leaves
napped with a thin veneer of extra-virgin olive oil rests on the side.
Toasted bread, either a sliced baguette or walnut bread, rims the
plate's edge. Yvon Goetz, corporate chef, Culinary Adventures Inc.:
Showcasing
contemporary French and Mediterranean cuisines, Goetz brings an
Alsatian touch to many of his delectable specialties. Born and raised
in Strasbourg, France, a region famed for its culinary conscience and
extraordinary wine, Goetz honed his skills working at some of the
world's finest Michelin starred restaurants. After graduating from
culinary school, he worked at London's Dorchester Hotel under Chef
Anton Mosimann, and Strasbourg's three-star Le Crocodile under Chef
Emile Jung. He joined The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton, Boston in
1991, then The Ritz-Carlton, Aspen, before coming to the Laguna Niguel
venue in 1995. Goetz says he really looks forward to autumn
produce and the culinary styles they evoke. He says it's a time of year
when diners seem to linger longer at the table. "People put on
jackets and sweaters, and want comfort foods. After all, they don't eat
sauerkraut in summer," he jokes, referring to the tangy fermented
cabbage dish so cherished in Alsace. "In France, cooking is
definitely more seasonal," he says. "I remember that it started in
September when we'd harvest apples and quince. Later in the season my
grandfather would dig a cavern underground. It was a big hole ...
filled with things like root vegetables. He'd cover it with wooden
blanks and it would stay cold. Even as a kid of 7, I loved those
potatoes, pumpkins and celeraic. Still to this day, my favorite fruit
for breakfast is quince jelly." He serves foie gras with
caramelized quince. Or, he combines it with cranberries in sweet-tart
chutney and teams it with venison. Yes, quince gets high
marks on his autumn-produce list. But he grew up in the cabbage capital
of France, and readily admits that he still loves cabbage. He uses it
in very elegant ways, including a seafood entree that uses Savoy
cabbage to encase small fillets of salmon and halibut. The bundles
steam-bake over a bed of luscious white beans or flageolets enriched
with pancetta (an Italian-style bacon cured with salt and spices).
Goetz says cabbage teamed with bacon or pancetta is a perfect culinary
marriage. "I like to use Savoy cabbage because the texture is
better (than common green cabbage)," he says. "Even when it is
thoroughly cooked, it keeps a crunch. And it's more flavorful." It's
more colorful, too. But few dishes can compete with the rich, autumn
hues in his Sweet Potato, Butternut Squash and Yukon Gold Gratin. It's
a succulent side dish to serve with roast game, beef, pork or chicken. James Boyce, executive chef at Studio, Montage Resort and Spa:
After
graduating with top honors from the Culinary Institute of America in
Hyde Park, N.Y., Boyce spent six years at Le Cirque working with Daniel
Boulud. Next, a stint as sous chef for Alex Stratta at Mary Elaine's at
The Phoenician (Scottsdale, Ariz). Then several big-name resorts,
before he returned to Mary Elaine's as chef de cuisine. In 2002 the
James Beard Foundation nominated him for Best Chef: Southwest. In
February of 2003, he came to Laguna Beach to open The Montage's
culinary showpiece, Studio. His cuisine is filled with unexpected but
highly pleasurable pairings. For example, tomato is teamed with
watermelon, and spicy shredded cabbage becomes a filling for ravioli. At
first glance, the ingredients may seem simple. But every fruit or
vegetable used in Boyce's kitchen is chosen for its vibrant flavor and
appealing texture. Often they are gathered from local farms, and their
origins are listed on the restaurant's menu – McGrath Farm Beets or
Carpenter Farm Root Vegetables. Boyce says he loves fall
cooking, describing it as a time that we start thinking about the
holidays. Many diners become less restrictive in their diet regimes. "As
the holidays get closer, we think more about intimate gatherings and
heartier fare," he says. "It's the best time of the year as far as
cooking; these are the comfort-food months. Everybody splurges. ...
Diets and calories go out the window. Everyone celebrates until January
1, when they get back on the bandwagon. "I think we spend
more time in the kitchen in fall. Cooking styles are more lavish, a
little heavier – braised meats and game. And I really like pumpkin or
butternut squash in risotto or gnocchi. The taste is a mix of sweetness
and nuttiness. And the texture is appealing, too." His
port-poached fig and raw-apple salad is another interesting mix of
flavors and textures. It's topped with plump grilled scallops and
served on a bed of baby greens. Boyce appreciates figs for their
mastication factor. He says that because they require a lot of chewing,
the flavors of the other ingredients develop in the mouth – the
salty-sweet seawater essence of the scallops, the tartness of the
Granny Smith apples. Another fall favorite is a warm dessert he
whimsically dubs an "upside-down bruschetta." Although it's topped with
ricotta cheese, most would call it a warm fruit cobbler. But when it's
in your mouth, with its warm mixture of pears, apples and pomegranate
seeds melding with crisp crust and subtly-sweetened ricotta, it really
doesn't matter what you call it. It's divine. "Anything with a
crust on it served warm is great," he says about the dessert. "And the
ricotta sits on top; it's creamy and doesn't melt like ice cream. I
like to create contrasts in flavors and textures. Here the pomegranate
seeds add a tart contrast in flavor, but also add crunchy texture. That
texture is different from the other fruit, the soft pears and slightly
firmer apples." Autumn fruits lend engaging elements to desserts. Here, those alluring flavors become an Orange County treasure.
HALIBUT AND SALMON DUO WRAPPED IN SAVOY CABBAGE ON A WHITE BEAN AND PANCETTA RAGOUT
Yield: 4 servings. 1 cup dried white beans or flageolets; see cook’s notes
2 large carrots, peeled, finely diced
1 medium onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
3 ounces pancetta or bacon; see cook’s notes
1 bunch fresh thyme, chopped (discard woody stems)
1 small head Savoy cabbage
Salt
4 (3-ounce) Alaskan halibut fillets
4 (3-ounce) salmon fillets
Cayenne pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon prepared horseradish
Butter for greasing casserole dish
1 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives or parsley
Ground black pepper or white pepper to taste
Juice from 1 lemon Cook’s notes: Flageolets
are small dried French kidney beans that range in color from pale green
to creamy white. They are sold at stores that specialize in imported
ingredients. Pancetta is Italian bacon cured with salt and spices, but
not smoked. It comes in a sausage-like roll and is found in Italian
markets and some supermarketsthat carry specialty items. 1.
Place beans in bowl and cover with water by 2 inches. Soak overnight.
Drain beans and place in medium saucepan. Add carrots, onion, garlic,
pancetta or bacon, thyme and salt. Bring to boil on high heat. Reduce
heat to medium and skim off and discard scum that floats to top. Simmer
about 40 minutes or until beans are tender. Remove heat and allow beans
to cool in liquid. 2. Break off large outer
leaves of cabbage and reserve to wrap fish. Cut remaining cabbage into
slender strips. Bring large pot of water to boil on high heat; add
pinch of salt. Blanch large leaves until pliable; refresh in ice water;
set aside to drain. Blanch sliced cabbage in boiling water until
tender-crisp; drain and refresh in ice water; set aside to drain. 3. Season
fish with salt and judicious amount of cayenne pepper. Spread thin
layer of horseradish on top of salmon. Place salmon on top of halibut.
Place fish on 1 blanched cabbage leaf. Roll up “like a burrito.” Wrap
tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 hour. 4. Preheat
oven to 350 degrees. Grease medium-size gratin pan with butter. Drain
beans, reserving liquid. Place drained beans in flameproof casserole.
Add sliced cabbage, white wine and 1 cup reserved bean liquid. Remove
plastic wrap from fish. Place fish on top of bean mixture. Cover and
bake about 30 minutes or until fish is cooked through. Using slotted
spoon, remove fish bundles and bean mixture. Place casserole on high
heat and boil until reduced and syrupy. Remove from heat and whisk in
butter, 1 piece at a time. Stir in chives or parsley. Taste and add
salt, pepper and lemon juice, as needed. 5. Divide bean mixture between 4 dinner plates. Top each with fish bundle. Spoon sauce over fish. Prepare
ahead: Goetz loves beans so much, he often teams them with lobster.
They can be prepared a day in advance (Step 1) and refrigerated, stored
in their liquid in an airtight container. Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 550 (49 percent from fat); protein 50 g; carbohydrates 12 g; fat 30 g; sodium 800 mg; calcium 289 mg; fiber 2.1 g. Source: Yvon Goetz, corporate chef for Culinary Adventures Incorporated
SWEET POTATO, BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND YUKON GOLD GRATIN
Yield: 4 servings 2 sweet potatoes
2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes
1 small butternut squash
1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (discard woody stems)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 cups heavy cream
Salt and white pepper to taste
1 medium yellow or brown onion, thinly sliced; divided use
3 ounces grated Swiss cheese 1. Preheat
oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease 2-quart gratin dish (shallow,
oval baking dish) with butter. Peel sweet potatoes and cut into
1/8-inch slices, using a mandoline if possible. Place in bowl. Peel
Yukon Gold potatoes and cut into thin slices, using a mandoline if
possible. Place in separate bowl. Peel butternut squash; cut in half
lengthwise. Discard seeds and membranes that surround seeds. Cut into
thin slices and place in separate bowl. 2. In
separate bowl, combine sage, thyme, garlic and cream. Season well with
salt and pepper. Pour mixture over each bowl of vegetables, dividing
equally between them. Gently toss. 3. In
prepared gratin dish, layer sweet potatoes (reserving cream mixture
left in bowl) and 1/3 of onion. Layer Yukon Gold potatoes (reserving
cream mixture left in bowl) and 1/3 of onion. Layer butternut squash
(reserving cream mixture left in bowl) and 1/3 of onion. Pour enough of
cream mixture so that mixture is just barely covered by 1/4-inch,
pushing down vegetables with finger to test the height of the liquid
(too much liquid will make gratin wet and runny). Bake 40 minutes. 4. Remove
from oven. Top with even layer of cheese. Return to oven and bake until
golden brown. Remove from oven and allow to rest 15-20 minutes before
serving so that vegetables will absorb liquid. Prepare ahead: Can
be prepared through Step 3, 1 1/2 hours before serving and left at room
temperature. Place cheese on top and return to 350-degree oven. Bake
until heated through and golden, about 20 to 25 minutes. Nutritional information (per serving):
Calories 325 (53 percent from fat); protein 13.4 g; carbohydrates 28 g;
fat 19.1 g; sodium 988 mg; calcium 192 mg; fiber 3.9 g. Source: Yvon Goetz, corporate chef for Culinary Adventures Incorporated
PURÉE OF CELERAIC SOUP
Yield: 8 (2 cup) servings. 8 ounces unsalted butter (2 sticks), divided use
2 large yellow onions, cut in small dice
4 leeks (light green and white part only), trimmed, washed, roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves, minced
5 celeriac (celery root), peeled, cut in medium dice
1 quart whole milk
Salt to taste, kosher salt preferred
Ground white pepper to taste
4 large baking potatoes, such as russets, peeled, cut in medium dice
1 quart heavy cream
1 quart chicken broth (if using canned use sodium-reduced broth)
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Optional garnish: small cooked shrimp, chopped fresh chives or fried celery leaves 1.
Place 6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) butter in large pot on medium heat. When
butter melts, add onions and leeks. Cover and reduce heat to low. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until onions are softened. Add bay leaves,
garlic, celeriac and milk. Season with salt and white pepper. Increase
heat to medium. Simmer 30 minutes, or until celeriac is almost soft. 2.
Add potatoes. Simmer gently until potatoes are fork tender. Add cream,
broth and nutmeg. Remove and discard bay leaves. Puree in batches in
food processor or blender. Strain through sieve. Return to pot and
bring to simmer on medium heat. 3. Cut
remaining 2 ounces cold butter into 4 pieces. Whisk into soup. Taste
and adjust seasoning as needed. Ladle into soup bowls. Prepare ahead:
Prepare soup through Step 2 up to two days before serving; cover and
refrigerate. Gently heat soup on low heat, stirring frequently.
Complete Step 3. Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 462 (56 percent from fat); protein 18 g; carbohydrates 32 g; fat 29 g; sodium 927 mg; calcium 289 mg, fiber 1 g. Source: Azmin Ghahreman, executive chef, The St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort and Spa, Dana Point.
PUMPKIN CHILI JAM SERVED WITH HUMBOLDT FOG CHEESE
Yield: about 4 to 5 cups 1 teaspoon dried juniper berries
1 1/2 pounds kabocha squash
3 tablespoons seeded, finely diced fresh jalapeño chilies; see cook’s notes
3 tablespoons seeded, finely diced red or green Thai chilies
1-3 tablespoons seeded, finely diced habanero chilies; see cook’s notes
1 1/3 cups sugar
1/3 cup water
1 1/2 tablespoons peeled fresh ginger
6 sprigs fresh mint, tied together to make bundle For serving: Humboldt
Fog Cheese, micro (immature) mint leaves, extra-virgin olive oil and
thinly-sliced French baguette toasted on one side or sliced walnut
bread Cook’s notes: Use caution when working
with fresh chilies. Wash work surface and hands thoroughly upon
completion and do NOT touch face or eyes. Habanero chilies are fiery
hot. For a milder version, use only 1 tablespoon finely diced habanero.
Ghahreman says this dish can be served as an appetizer, first course or dessert. 1. Place juniper berries in small bowl. Cover with cold water and set aside to soak. 2. Preheat
oven to 350 degrees. Cut kabocha squash in halves. Remove and discard
seeds and membranes. Place cut-side up on rimmed baking sheet. Roast
until flesh is fork tender, about 30 minutes. When cool enough to
handle, scoop out flesh with large spoon and cut into medium dice.
Place in large, heatproof bowl and set aside. Discard rind. 3.
Bring 1 quart water to rapid boil on high heat in large saucepan. Add
chilies and bring back to boil; once water has returned to a boil,
remove from heat and drain. Repeat boiling and draining 2 more times.
Set aside. 4. Drain juniper berries and place
on cutting board. Crush with mallet or bottom of heavy skillet. In a
separate medium saucepan combine sugar and water (it should look like
wet sand). Place on medium heat and stir in ginger, chilies and crushed
juniper berries. Bring to simmer. Simmer 7 to 10 minutes, at the same
time brushing down sides of saucepan with bundle of fresh mint (this
process infuses the mint flavors into chili mixture, plus it prevents
sugar from crystallizing). 5. Using large spatula, gently fold sugar-chili mixture into roasted kabocha. Cool. 6. Use
immediately, or store well-sealed in refrigerator (see “prepare
ahead”). If jam crystallizes in refrigeration, reheat gently before
using. 7. To serve, place generous wedge of
Humboldt Fog cheese on plate. Spoon a strip of 1 1/2 tablespoons
Pumpkin Chili Jam next to cheese. If desired, toss a small handful of
micro mint leaves (immature leaves) with enough extra-virgin olive oil
to lightly coat leaves. Place next to cheese. Garnish plate with sliced
baguette that has been lightly toasted on one side. Serve. Prepare ahead:
Jam can be prepared up to a week in advance and stored well-sealed in
refrigerator. If jam crystallizes in refrigeration, reheat on low heat
before using. Nutritional information (per 1 1/2 tablespoons “jam” without cheese): Calories
112 (1 percent from fat); protein 1.1 g; carbohydrates 28 g; fat less
than 1 g; sodium 25mg; calcium 4 mg, fiber .4 g. Source: Azmin Ghahreman, executive chef, The St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort and Spa, Dana Point.
SCALLOPS WITH PORT POACHED FIGS AND APPLE SALAD
Yield: 6 servings 12 whole black mission figs
3/4 cup port wine
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons sugar
12 jumbo fresh sea scallops
Salt and white pepper to taste
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 gala apples, unpeeled, cored
2 cups baby salad greens, locally grown preferred
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives 1.
Trim stems from figs. In medium saucepan combine port, vinegar, orange
juice and sugar. Bring to simmer on medium-low heat; simmer 15 minutes
or until slightly thickened. Remove from heat and add figs. Cover and
cool to room temperature. 2. Season scallops
with salt and pepper. Heat heavy-bottomed skillet (big enough to hold
scallops in single layer) on medium heat. Add olive oil and scallops.
Cook 3 minutes on each side, or until desired degree of doneness is
reached. Set aside and keep warm. 3. Cut
apples into wedges and thinly slice. Place in bowl. Remove figs from
poaching liquid and cut in half lengthwise; reserve poaching liquid.
Gently toss figs with apples. Season with salt and pepper. 4.
Divide greens between 6 salad plates. Top with fig-apple salad. Place
scallops on side. Drizzle with poaching liquid and a little
extra-virgin olive oil. Garnish with chives and serve. Prepare ahead: Figs (Step 1) can be poached up to two days in advance of serving and refrigerated in poaching liquid. Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 772 (44 percent from fat); protein 31 g; carbohydrates 76 g; fat 38 g; sodium 756 mg; calcium 22 mg; fiber 1.2 g. Source: James Boyce, executive chef at Studio at the Montage Resort and Spa.
UPSIDE DOWN PEARS, APPLES AND POMEGRANATE BRUSCHETTA
Yield: 6 servings 2 vanilla beans
1 cup sugar
6 ripe pears, peeled, cored
6 apples, peeled, cored
Seeds from 1 pomegranate
1/4 cup brandy
3 cups all purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cold cup butter (1 stick), cut into 8 pieces
1 large egg
1 1/4 cup heavy cream
All-purpose flour for dusting work surface
Heavy cream, enough to lightly coat crust
Sugar for dusting crust, about 1/4 cup
Garnish: 6 tablespoons ricotta cheese
Sugar for lightly dusting ricotta cheese 1.
Cut vanilla beans into 1-inch pieces. In large bowl, toss vanilla bean
pieces with 1 cup sugar. Cut pears and apples into 1/2-inch wide slices
and add to sugar mixture. Add pomegranate seeds and brandy; toss. Allow
to sit at room temperature for 20-25 minutes. 2.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, baking
powder, baking soda and salt in large bowl; stir to blend. Using a
pastry cutter, cut butter into flour mixture. 3.
In separate bowl, combine egg and cream; stir with fork to combine.
Make small well in center of flour mixture. Add egg-cream mixture to
well. Mix lightly until mixture is just combined. It should be loose
and crumbly. If it is too dry add a little additional cream. 4.
Turn out on floured work surface. Use hands to work dough into
rectangle a little smaller than size of pan and fold into thirds for
portability. Place fruit mixture in 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Unfold
dough on fruit. Brush with cream and dust lightly with sugar. Bake in
preheated oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown and fruit is
fork tender. Cool slightly. 5. Serve warm, not
hot. Scoop equal amounts onto 6 dessert plates. Top each with
1tablespoon ricotta cheese. Dust top of cheese lightly with sugar. Prepare ahead: Best to prepare so that it comes out of the oven about 30 minutes before serving. Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 348 (39 percent from fat); protein 20 g; carbohydrates 31 g; fat 15 g; sodium 226 mg; calcium 112 mg; fiber .4 g. Source: James Boyce, executive chef, Studio at the Montage Resort and Spa.
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